The warm rays of Raro

With only a four or five day break away allowed from SPASIFIK, husband and wife team of INNES and ANNE LOGAN left a chilly winter in Auckland and headed to Rarotonga with their son Ben for some much needed sun, sea and a taste of Cook Islands hospitality and culture.

There are plenty of islands in the Pacific closer to New Zealand than Rarotonga; Fiji, Tonga and New Caledonia to name a few. But none can match that familiarity you may need if you’re wanting to escape winter and make the most of a few days break in a tropical environment.
Tagata Pasifika’s John Utanga said someone described his home island as “another suburb of Auckland.” I could see where he was coming from, even when lying on golden sands and swimming with tropical fish in the lagoon at The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa, while winter has descended upon New Zealand, a few thousand kilometres south-west of us.
Rarotongan sunsetThe Cook Islands gained independence from New Zealand in 1965 but still has ties as a nation with free association. That association is everywhere, from the Kiwi currency used to pay for everything, to everyday conversations with the locals, who say most of their family is living in either New Zealand or Australia. Like Niue, the status of free association makes keeping the people from being drawn by the bright lights and economic attraction of New Zealand all the more difficult. Nevertheless, on an island of this size, the 8000 people who live in Raro added to tourist numbers, which range from 1000-2000 at any one time, is enough to create a certain buzz about the place.
Their culture is alive and well, whether it’s reflected in the art galleries, the t-shirts and craft stores in Avarua and dotted around the island, the local music being pumped out by Raro Records or the prestige and profile of their dance events. As Liz Raizis from The Rarotongan said, imagine a New Zealand town of that size having a culture as vibrant and prolific as theirs. I couldn’t. On Island Night at The Rarotongan we were entertained by Orama, headed by Sonny Williams, who have represented the Cook Islands with pride at festivals around the world. Sonny used to run a performing group in Auckland during the 1980s but says in far off places like Europe, seeing a group like theirs from one of the most far-off tropical islands on earth has a special appeal to them.
As a family we’d have morning coffee at The Café, go for delicious meals at Tamarind House or the Little Polynesian, browse at local art at Beachcombers or The Art Studio, have a drink at Trader Jacks or check out our own magazine at The Bounty Bookstore. We weren’t there to rewrite the cultural travel experience. As a Polynesian in Auckland, the familiarity of the place for a few short days away from the cold of home to relax, unwind and recharge the batteries was all I wanted and needed. And Rarotonga delivered.

• Thanks to Liz and her team at the Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa and Jennifer and her team at Budget for transport

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