Lake Hauroko, 35 kilometres northwest of Tuatapere in Fiordland National Park, demands respect from those venturing out on it - for its history as well as its mood swings.
Deep in the Southland bush, it has a haunting beauty and a reputation for rapid weather changes. Winds funnelling through the mountains can transform the lake from a millpond to whitecaps within minutes, creating havoc for boaties.
The lake is New Zealand's deepest, its floor carved to a depth of 462 metres by glaciers 20,000 years ago. Its waters are stained brown by tannins swept down from the bush.
On April 11, 1967, George Evans, of Tuatapere, was cruising around the lake in his boat. He stopped for a brew-up on Mary Island, part way up the lake, before deciding to explore openings in a cliff. He climbed a few steps and was startled by what he saw: a skeleton covered in a cloak blocking much of a cave.
The body was in a sitting position propped up by manuka stakes. Evans initially thought it was a murder scene, but loser examination showed it was of Maori origin.
The discovery of one of the oldest and best-preserved Maori burial sites in New Zealand attracted widespread publicity. An Otago University study found the skeleton was probably that of a high-ranking woman, aged about 40, who lived in the 17th century.
The "Maori princess", as she came to be known, was identified as Te Maiairea Te Riri Wairua Puru, of Kati Mamoe, who married into the highest family of the Waitaha tribe.
The study was approved by the Murihiku tribal executive. However, Invercargill researcher David Mollison says not everyone felt comfortable about breaking the tapu, the Maori belief that the bones of the dead should be left undisturbed.
"A neighbour of George, a Maori woman, was most concerned about what had happened. She predicted that he would die soon near the water," says Mollison.
Her prediction came true when, on July 24, 1967, Evans was floundering near Tuatapere when he suddenly felt unwell and died.
Uncanny coincidence or Maori curse? Mollison points out that 65-year-old Evans had suffered ill health for several months before his death.
But there is no doubt the skeleton in the cave has preyed on the minds of some visitors to the lake. Wairaurahiri Jet operator Johan Groters says several years ago he heard a group of Maori were at first willing to visit the burial site. “But once they got there, they were unhappy. They didn't like it," he says.
Mollison says the legend of the Maori princess is growing. Mollison and he hears new stories every now and then, including a recent one that adds to the mystery.
"A local chap told me he was out boating with his wife and son on a calm day on the lake. As they approached the cliff on Mary Island, directly under the burial site, the water suddenly became very rough for no apparent reason. It was too dangerous so they pulled away. Once away from that area, they could see the water had calmed down."
The same thing happened twice more, after which they gave up and went to the head of the lake.
"On the way back, they tried one last time, but the water again became rough," says Mollison, who concludes: "It was either too rough or they were not meant to be there."
Today, the skeleton in the cave is a historical curiosity for most of the passing boaties and trampers but DOC signs warn the area is a Maori burial site. A metal grille over the cave entrance keeps intruders out.
The peace of the Maori princess is disturbed only by the occasional visitor and the sound of the wind as it howls through the mountain valleys and down the lake.
KG05